Ft. Bragg Visit

Selections on ice at Princess Seafood in Ft. Bragg.

We heard it was going to be very hot yesterday (6/23/2018), except at the coast. After weighing our options, we decided to leave early in the morning & head up to Fort Bragg. It was my first chance to see the burn damage around the Santa Rosa area from October 2017 Fires, and though there's been so much cleanup, the scars are still quite visible. Many of the surving trees (especially redwoods) escaped with some burns, but at least they are still alive.

I've visited the Mendocino County coast up to Fort Bragg once before, up Highway 1 from Occidental. Robin said it would be fastest to heading up 101 to Willits, then head due west along State Highway 20 through Jackson State Forest (pictured above). I'd never seen 101 north of Cloverdale, so it was quite an eye-opener for me. Very light traffic. 

I should have taken a shot at the Mariposa Market in Willits, a Natural Foods store with all kinds of local produce, and an impressive bulk section. We missed the turnoff to Willits from 101 because recent construction has built a bypass bridge through some beautiful lowland floodzone country which empties into primordial forest. This entire area smells of flowers, grasses and trees, oxygen rising from the bounteous earth. Mendocino County voted to go all-organic a few years ago, and you can tell. There certainly is a hippie vibe in Willits, but it's not that overwhelming. 

Highway 20 through Jackson State Forest is essentially about 30 miles of state highway switchbacks winding up and down heavily forested tall hills and low mountains, and I understand this was major logging land. We had windows down most of the way, and the heavy oxygen really had a positive effect on all of us (our pooch Frances was much calmer on this portion). Then there was a point where we could smell the ocean air, about 5 miles out, then we could see it, then before you knew it, we were in Ft. Bragg, then descending into Noyo Harbor, a real working fishing harbor.

Above and below: the cases at Princess Seafood in Fort Bragg. These folks are well-known in Bay Area culinary circles, and vend at Farmers Markets in the region. Amazing selection of fresh caught salmon, tuna, cod, halibut above, crab, oysters, shrimp, and smoked marlin & salmon below. We got a crab louie salad to eat right away, flash frozen prawns, and smoked salmon to go. Glad we brought the ice chest.

Gigantic piece of weathered wood along the harbor road.

A flat of Pacific Purple Sea Urchin, likely from the recent urchin removal project on Memorial Day weekend. Urchins have been decimating the abalone population.

We explored the Noyo Harbor after eating the crab salad. I find dilapidated scenes like this have a strange beauty. Stuff's not all chi-chi here.

I thought Robin had lost her bloody mind when we were viewing all the incredible fresh-caught seafood on display at Princess Seafood, and she said she was craving Fish & Chips. But one of the things I have learned in a long-term relationship: one doesn't have to voice every single criticism that comes to mind, especially in cases where said criticism is maybe just your opinion, man. There was another restaurant in Noyo Harbor (Cap'n Flints) that Robin said had the best Fish & Chips, but we found out they are long closed.

So instead we went to Sea Pal Cove, a no frills spot where you order fried food and beer, then sit somewhere on the massive deck. We ordered Fish & Chips, a cup of North Coast Brewing Company Rasputin Imperial Stout and a cup of Emerald Triangle IPA (photo above). I have gotta say my initial impulse was completely wrong, and I was right to keep my mouth shut. I've never had Fish & Chips (mainly the ample serving of fried fish, the chips were meh, but who cares) anywhere as close to good as this in the United States (and also I'm thinking this was better than any I ever had in Old Blighty). It doesn't take a genius to figure out why. 

Most people were ordering Fish & Chips, and you should too. The Fry Cook is obviously a pro. And nothing else was cooked in that fryer, I'm sure. Even the darn-tootin' tartar sauce was great, tasted nothing like tartar sauce delivered in giant cans from the back of an eighteen wheeler. They offer other stuff at Sea Pal Cove, but take it from me: just get the Fish & Chips. And keep an eye out for the swooping Sea Gulls, matey.

A shot of Robin looking out from a deck at Noyo Harbor toward the bridge and the Pacific Ocean.

I realize I didn't shoot anything related to the rest of our visit to Fort Bragg. Mostly, we explored the downtown area, around where the North Coast Brewing Company is located. Even though we opted not to wait for a table at the North Coast Taproom (we weren't hungry, just wanted to get 2nd ale), that was OK, I'm delighted to see they are doing such good business. Plus we wanted to be outside to enjoy the jacket weather, and see more of the town. 

I was impressed to find several decent bookstores downtown, and came close to buying a book I didn't know existed, the first English Translation (complete with all the woodcuts) of the Hypnerotomachia Poliphilo (from 1999?). This should give one some idea of the range of the bookstores here.

Another highlight was a visit to Roundman's Smoke House where I bought Smoked Lamb Sausage, Pork Jalapeno Sausage, and some Smoked Turkey Thigh (which Robin wants to use in a batch of beans). They had quite a selection of smoked sausages and meats, including Smoked Game Hen, something I've never seen before. I should have gotten one of those.

Our final visit was to Overtime Brewing, a brew/gastro pub with excellent quality ales (I had Stout & Robin had an excellent English-style Bitter), and an intriguing menu. We were still quite full from the Fish & Chips, but had a good time sipping our Ales on the back porch with Frances, enjoying the weather, and looking at the tops of cypress trees waving in the ocean wind.

Above: from outside the Noyo Harbor Bridge looking into the harbor. Below: same spot looking out to the ocean, and waves in the distance battering the cliffs.