Cakes And Ale: Mughal Restaurant in Hayward

Bhindi Masala at Mughal Restaurant in Hayward.

Finally had the perfect day to check out Mughal Restaurant in Hayward. Mughlai Cuisine has its origins in Medieval India, and while I know some of the classic dishes (such as Biryani), I know just enough about it to realize how much more there is to learn. A blend of Central Asian, Northern India, and Pakistani influences prevail, and the cuisine is most often associated with cities such as Hyderabad & Karachi.

Above, clockwise from below: Bhindi Masala, Lamb Saag, and Lamb Paya. Below: Goat Biryani, Raita, Garlic Naan.

Similar in many ways to Hyderabad Biryani House in San Ramon. One thing both restaurants have in common: they don't ask how spicy you like the food, so be forewarned, this cuisine is pretty spicy, and also, all the meat we had was on the bone. Both restaurants are inexpensive and cooking at a highly nuanced level.

The Goat Biryani is a robust rice dish chock full of spices--you can see a black peppercorn in the closeup shot below, and I think the rice was made with saffron. The goat is tender and succulent, falling off the bone.

The Lamb Paya is a soup, with pieces of lamb mostly fallen off the trotter bones. It has the consistency of a classic thick stock from the French school, made by roasting the bones, then placing the bones in boiling water that gets more and more reduced. That's the basis of Escoffier's mother sauces, but there's also a similarity here to the stock for Chicken and Sausage Gumbo, using very dark roux. In this case, what's definitely unlike French, Creole & Cajun classics is the panoply of Indian spices, resulting in a soup that's thick and hearty, but also explosive in flavor and aroma.

There's many great versions of Lamb Saag around the Bay Area, but this one stands out because there's no dairy used at all. Most versions at least use ghee, and even beyond Saag Paneer, some add cream or milk. This version I think is a blend of spinach and other greens, and probably some onion and garlic finely minced then sauteed in a neutral oil. And of course the tender lamb and ecstasy-inspiring spices express the pinnacle notes of the dish.

With all this savory and spicy flavor happening, it was nice to encounter versions of Bhindi Masala and Raita unlike any I've ever had. The Bhindi Masala tasted like it was made from fresh (not frozen) vegetables, with that tell-tale sweet flavor in the okra, onion & tomato. Also, this version isn't quite as hammered, and, speaking of Creole & Cajun classics, reminds me more of Okra & Tomato side dishes. Their Raita is the most distinctive version I've had, likely because it was made fresh with shredded cucumbers. Both items stood out as counterpoint to the spicier items, making the overall experience more sublime.

The service was outstanding, and the restaurant is connected a series of ballrooms and special rooms folks can rent for corporate events, with catering of Mughal & American cuisine available.