Rancho Viejo in Sonoma, CA

The slow-cooked perfection that is Cochinita Pibil, at Rancho Viejo in Sonoma, CA.

For years, I thought there was no decent Mexican food in Northern California, but I've sure been disavowed of that notion. Here's one of the great places in the Bay Area that specializes in Yucatecan flavors, on the NW edge of Sonoma, CA, just south of where Highway 12 leaves Boyes Hot Springs. I've been to a couple of great taco trucks with salsas that wake you right up, outstanding Pastor, and tender Lingua, but this place? Look at those thick chips with barely any salt on them, an ideal version of Pico De Gallo with tomatoes so fresh, Robin was eating some of it, along with bright tasting salsa verde and a rojo salsa so vivid I thought the color and flavor was otherworldly.

Rancho Viejo's patio with a view.

Spot on Ceviche with very fresh seafood, tomato, cucumber, tiny bits of jalapeno, and a garnish of avocado.

Mole Verde. Rich and soulful.

I guarantee these aren't store-bought, mass-made.

For the coup de gras: Cochinita Pibil. So flavorful: rich achiote, subtle undertones of citrus, garlic and chile, tender pork shoulder slowly cooked in banana leaves. The only versions I've had that were the equal of this were home-cooked, or those I've had at Fonda San Miguel in Austin, when Miguel Ravago was the head chef.

ranchoviejosonoma.com