China Basin

Mission: Secret Histories

Salumi & Pike Place Fish Market In Seattle

My first view of Seattle. Still rather staggered about being there--the way the city is laid out, unique features, the natural beauty and architecture. 

We weren't able to fit Crater Lake in on this trip, but Salumi worked out perfectly.

Robin got the Porchetta Sandwich, I got the Salumi Sampler plate. One of the best meals of my life.

The neighbors we shared the table with were likewise happy.

First of 3 panorama photos from the top of Pike Place Market.

Looking at these after all these months, I'm astonished by how good the food looks in these photos. 

We didn't get anything here. Too expensive.

Instead we got sashimi from Japanese supermarket then took it back with us to eat at the Motel 6 in Redmond. I think Frances got into the trash that night, coughing up bits of wasabi...

Rancho Viejo Vallejo

We've been back to Rancho Viejo many times for Fish Tacos, but this morning we dropped by for a late breakfast (they stop serving it at 11am). We both got this: Scrambled Eggs with Nopales. The cactus strips were cooked well to the point where they still have a little snap to them. Even the beans and rice were better than we expected: fresh and homemade. Nothing too salty. Also had a little Guacamole (doesn't come with the breakfasts, ala carte). So satisfying and not very expensive.

We saw they were about to open this new place on Broadway in Vallejo. So when it looked like it was open, we decided to check it out. Note the word "mariscos (seafood)" on the banner.

So the first time I got 4 tacos, 4 different types, to get a sense of the place. Counter clockwise from lower left: Carnitas, Carne Asada, Al Pastor, and Fish Taco. The Carnitas were right on the money, just cooked perfectly, with a touch of caramelization. The Asada was good, nice char, but just a little shy of the best I've had; same deal with Al Pastor, a solid version, though, and equal to the best in Vallejo. But finally, with the red cabbage on it, the Fish Taco, easily the best Fish Taco I've ever had. Just amazing. And it's Snapper, not Tilapia. So good, Robin ordered another ala carte.

That first time Robin ordered Quesadillas which were good but not mind-blowing. Then she got a fish taco.

*

So today we returned. Great salsa, with a nice bite to it. Tasted like it has mexican oregano in it. Otherwise, just straight up chiles, garlic, tomato, cilantro. Good pico de gallo.

So we opted for some new stuff: chile relleno.

Good breading, nice sauce, the poblano/pasilla chile cooked perfectly, with the cheese oozing out. Exactly what we want.

Now for something you don't see much, but at a Mexican restaurant featuring seafood it makes sense to find a Tostada Con Pulpo (Octopus Tostada). This one was cooked perfectly, not overdone, nice texture, and strewn with avocado & pico de gallo. 

Tender pulpo. 

And finally we both had a fish taco, best thing on the menu.

Rancho Viejo
1906 Broadway
Vallejo, CA
707-643-2507

La Chona in San Pablo

Robin found a reference online to this place having the best Birria de Chivo in the Bay Area. We went there Thursday, waiting for rush hour traffic to die down, but they only do Birria & Menudo on weekends. Instead Robin had a Chile Relleno ($5.50) that was enormous and delicious, while I had an exceptionally great Pollo Con Mole ($6.50), a Mole that tasted like it was made from scratch, a variety that I've never had before. Unlike one of the negative Yelp reviews I saw, the service was good. The only criticism I can think of is the parking in back is kind of cramped, but there's plenty of free parking nearby.

Best Birria de Chivo ($8.50) I've ever had. The lemon, onion and cilantro make for ideal garnishes. It occurs to me that goat is one of those meats eaten in most parts of the world.

I got the Grande Birria de Chivo ($9.50) which I couldn't finish. Sweet & soulful.

Oh yeah, did I mention the fresh made corn tortillas? You won't find that at Torchy's.

Beyond the blurry foreground of the next bite, you can see, background center, the jar of the incendiary salsa. These folks aren't fooling around--tastes like habaneros are part of their mix, so stay away from their salsa if you can't take the heat.

La Chona Restaurant

1848 23rd St, San Pablo, CA 94806

(510) 233-4655

Asian Art Museum, Seduction: Japan's Floating World II

These are from the Second Room of the Seduction portion of the Exhibit. And this first image you see, Utagawa Kuniyoshi's Hell Courtesan is the most astonishing, captivating, and amazing pieces of artwork I've seen in over a decade. I'm assuming there's better photographs and reproductions of it elsewhere, including in the official catalogues of the show, which the AAM Museum Store was doing pre-orders for. According to wikipedia, "Utagawa Kuniyoshi was one of the last great masters of the Japanese ukiyo-e style of woodblock prints and painting." Is there any doubt that's true?

I thought I'd do a shot where one could see the effect of the light on the textiles (I believe this is silk).

I have no words that suffice. The mastery, beauty, grace, elegance, and utter other-worldliness of this work takes my breath away. 

Asian Art Museum, Seduction: Japan's Floating World I

There was a long queue to get into seeing the Seduction portion of the exhibition at the Asian Art Museum, roughly 30 minutes long. This was my first time to the AAM at the present location. Robin and I decided last night to check out the free day today. It was well worth the trip. We found free parking two blocks away, next to the McDonald's that just got shut down on Van Ness.